On to the Darien Gap

The Darien Gap is the large mass of land separating much of Panama from Columbia.  A tropical rain forest of extreme ruggedness. It has been the safe zone for drug traffickers, FARC rebels and illegal mining and deforesting logging operations by foreign operatives.

There are no roads joining these countries.  For centuries many tribes of indigenous peoples and the foreign countries that had tried to conquer them existed together with severe hostilities between them. Now, some of this has changed but not all.

I pulled these photos off the Internet after viewing Morgan Freeman's History Channel show that visited one of the Embera-Wounaan villages.  Of course, the tribe dressed in their Sunday best!

Before traveling there my trip took me to Guna Yala, 'the land of the Gunas', also known by many as 'the San Blas Islands'.
I was lucky enough when in Guna Yala, delivering Sawyer Water filters and eye glasses to the Guna people on Panama's Caribbean islands , that I made contact with an ex Peace Corp couple living down in the Darien.  They were also doing water related projects and were open to an assist from me.

110 5 gallon buckets bought in Panama City, Panama

I had just delivered 110 Sawyer 5 gallon water filtration "Bucket Kits" to the Guna islands known as the Robeson's. The buckets were sourced in Panama City on the Pacific coast and transported across the mountains and out to sea, to the San Blas islands.

Sawyer SP-181 bucket filter systems being assembled. Buckets bought in country, filters brought in to country in personal luggage, seen in red suitcase and others

The filter kits themselves, I brought in my suitcases from the U.S.

 and then instructed Justino a Guna Indian, how to assemble the parts and later how to clean the filters for a million gallon life. I put him on the payroll, to do all the work while on the islands so he and the community 'knew' that he would be the one to go to later on with any questions or problems.

We assembled 55 bucket filter systems and gave one to each family group living on the main 2 islands.

Several hundred pair of Reader Eye Glasses distributed to the many in need.

Buckets loaded with different power of 'Readers' brought to each hut and recipients were shown how to judge which pair of glasses were best for their needs.  Anyone who needed vision correction received a pair.  Simple: life changing and low cost.
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At first, the buckets were used to carry these Eye Glass...readers, but later were drilled and refitted into the filter systems to filter their dirty river water source into safe drinking water, 99.999% pure.  Justino Galindo Martinez, a Guna local and friend of mine, explained to the villagers, one at a time, how to clean the filters by back flushing.  This would allow a life time of usage.

Taking 55 (half) of the systems to the Darien Gap

Once the Gunas received their water filtering systems, I took the remaining 55 buckets and filters down into the Darien Gap.  The journey was across the mountains to the pacific coast once again and then a very long drive down towards Columbia. The trip was on an often damaged road to Yaviza, the last town in Panama accessible by road.  Beyond this, it was either on foot through totally dense jungle or up rivers by dug out canoes.

Alan Foster and his wife Colleen manage a camp in this Yaviza, that offer assistance of many types to the locals and travel up river to remote villages, to supply methods for acquiring clean water and sanitation.

It is 'this' water that most of the indigenous tribes use for drinking, bathing and laundry.  It is this water, that we are trying to filter or bypass by digging wells and installing water storage systems.

Alan "the Beard", was taking a couple of missionary students and their chaperone to one of the villages where he was leading a project to dig a well and set up a tank storage system.  Without filtered water from subsurface wells, the people up river have to drink this river water, resulting often in sickness and disease.

The trips up river that I luckily was able to join, was a 4.5 hour trip in a 60' outboard powered canoe.

 Several  'Military Check Points' had to be cleared before we were allowed further up river.

Obviously, I was careful in photographing as passport check and inspection process appeared 'tense'.

The villagers share expenses for materials. Allan supplies the knowledge, equipment and arranges shipping and delivery of everything needed.

 The wells require a test drilling to see if a certain geology is below and adequate water supply is available. If so, then a hand dug well is created.  Here for some reason, things go in reverse.  The dug well is capped with a cement cover but Alan has the men drilling a test bore.

 Once a water supply has been secured, it is powered by a solar driven pump

Locals are taught to do all that is necessary and to hopefully repair what is necessary.

  In the photo above, the village men are hoisting 3 large tanks that will eventually hold water for a gravity water system. The Embera-Wounaan men physically built the tower and do all of the associated work, under the guidance of Alan.  Once the system is completed, the water will be available 24/7 due to gravity.

Villages have grown in popularity over the years bringing individual families out of the thick jungle into what is now river side communities.  The transition has not always been a plus as congestion causes it's own problems.
Food sourcing, potable water and sanitation for large groups all must be met.

Composting toilets have been gaining acceptance due to the need for centralized sanitation options in compact communities.

But certainly an 'enclosed' toilet can be improved upon. Composting toilets made more appealing and functional have gained the interest of the villagers.
To improve and increase the Composting Toilet concept up river,  Alan has amongst other things has been working on creating a prototype composting toilet base to be used for making a fiberglass mold that will then be used to create cement toilets created on site within these villages.

Pit toilets were common, but now composting toilets are gaining popularity in these dense villages, to solve some of the problems associated with the of sanitation of large groups.  \

Alan in backround with a couple of volunteers and our Wounaan family hosts.

 Obviously more needs to be done, but because of Alan and a few volunteers, there is hope for clean water and reasonable sanitation.

much of the clothing and virtually all toys are donated

It is the children and the older folks who suffer the most, as their immune system is weaker, but from what I saw and experienced, all the villagers show concern and appreciate the help.

A Sawyer 5 gallon bucket filtration system being used in our Host's stilt home.

A trip to a larger community along a river bank,

Alan, who is fluent in Spanish, the Embera-Wounaan's 2nd language, demonstrates a Sawyer water filter system.

 Alan took the dirty unsanitary river water and allowed it to flow through the Sawyer filter.   A minute later, the clean water was then taste tested by the local men, who's eyes lit up!

This large village, has an elaborate system brought in by a Non Profit and the gov't a few years ago.. but like most systems, it's broken.  Alan often returns with parts and yes, he repairs them.

Now more of the basics need to be considered and made available for clean water and sanitation.  It's not rocket science.  It's feet on the ground and some bucks!

 The people of these villages appreciate the help being brought in by us outsiders. Hopefully Alan and Colleen have the strength to continue.  I will continue to visit and support them financially.

It doesn't take much to help. Some time, some money, some effort but in the end, this chief's smile tells volumes.

Hoping to return to Yaviza and the Darien Gap late this winter to bring more support.

Storms break pipeline

This is their rainy season with frequent heavy rainfall from thunderstorms.  Trees topple in the jungle and apparently have damaged the aqueduct/pipeline, so no water is now flowing to the islands.
Between squalls the Gunas are using their canoes to go to the rivers to fill buckets with water.

I have agreed with their elders to return in July to attempt to fix the problems and teach some of the men how to do basic repairs.  Along with this, I will bring PVC plumbing parts and new pipe in the types and sizes needed.

Ordering 100 Sawyer Point One water filtering kits to take with me, to be able to supply each home on 2 islands with filtered water.  These will attach to a 5 gallon buckets which will be purchased in Panama City, Panama.

It Begins with Water: communication with a priest friend.

     [Note: Click on any photo to enlarge it]
Father, I will keep this brief, as I do not have with me, the materials to draw from, for a detailed explanation. However, this is the basics.

I've been staying connected to the Guna(formerly Kuna) tribe of indigenous peoples for about 7 years.  They live mostly off the Caribbean coast of Panama.

  One of a cluster of islands in the Robeson Island group of Guna Yala.  Time is short; the sea is rising.
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My "Ulu Sail Project" had me making and delivering 308 sails over a 6 yr. period for their dug out canoes they call ulus.  This endeavor has allowed me unique accessability into their lives and culture.

While there, I live with the Gunas, on their islands, in their huts.  Palm thatched roof, bamboo reed walls, dirt floor, no potable water on the islands and for a bathroom? ...a hole at the end of the dock.
Primitive.

    I had been given free access and am accepted by them to live among them.  This day to day intimacy has allowed me to see and experience more than the casual sail cruiser or backpacker might get a glimpse of and has allowed me to get to know one of the mayors (Silas) and some elders (leaders in their congresso's).  One such man, Alberto -an elder-, speaks basic English and I contacted him last summer, asking him to consult with his other elders and to extend to me a list of problems they feel they are facing.  "Maybe" I said, "I could help in some way?"

His reply a month later, when I was able to get a call through to him, was "We have many problems, but our biggest right now is water."  He explained that there was no water coming from a pipeline that the Panamanian government had built years ago.  The gov't. had told them after requests for repair,  "We built it, you fix it."

 This was the total flow of water to island #1 and 2, the first of 8, when I arrived in January, 2017. Islands 3-8 had no water flow at all....(the pipe was broken underwater.)
.............There is no potable water on these islands. All water for drinking, cooking, bathing, laundry must come from the mainland. Collecting it in jugs, carried in their ulus from the mainland to their home on the islands, or...hopefully at least for a time, procuring it from this oft broken system of an old government pipeline, has and is their only means of survival.
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The Guna's are a primitive tribe in many ways. They are one of a half dozen indigenous groups within Panama.  They have been living for the past 200 years, mostly on coastal islands near to the Caribbean mainland of the country, between the Panama Canal and Columbia.  360 islands of which about 50 are somewhat populated with 30-50,000 Gunas. On a map, the area is denoted as Guna Yala, which means Guna Land.  Western culture often refers to it as the San Blas islands, named by the Spanish for Saint Blas.

I told Alberto, that I would come to Panama, and do my best to discern the water problem and if possible, fix what I could of the pipeline.  This was a promise based on faith and hope.  I knew I had some basic talents that could be applied but had no idea really of how the system was built or the problems it might be having.  I only knew I would keep my promise and try to help.

Without the water from the pipeline, 'this' grey/white tinted water, was the best quality they have access to.  There have been no tests of the waters makeup, but no doubt it is not the healthiest to drink.

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From living with them over the years, even though on short visits, I saw the problems associated with lack of medical attention, poor food supply/lack of good nutrition, so I spent time in the fall of 2016 attending 2 workshops in Ft. Myers, Fl and also an international conference in Managua, Nicaragua to better understand food production methods for small scale family farming. This was only done to open my eyes to what I would see in the jungle fincas(farms) so I could better understand what they are doing and how maybe...things could be improved.

 Justino's son was taught the little I knew of how to plant seeds and then how to care for them. His school teacher on another island, is now involved also, using these seedlings to teach the children, principles required to nurture new plants.

 New seedlings 5 days later. The eight types of seeds were donated by Echo Global Farms, in Ft. Myers, Florida. These 8 plant types, were chosen by their staff, from varieties from around the world as the most nutritious plants that are also known to grow well in the tropics.

 My hope was to attempt to assist the Guna men to produce a larger volume and variety of nutritious food.

 A meal, presented to me as an honored guest, is not typical for a Guna.  Exceptional in quantity but certainly lacking variety and never available on to the average Guna on any consistant basis.  Note also, they normally eat but once/day.  Consider this meal above, very much the 'best' you could hope for...on a daily basis. Day after day after day the same. Many nutrients missing.
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In January I flew down to Panama City, Panama, arranged to acquire what I needed.  Tools, plumbing parts, food for myself and 110 water filter kit's built by Sawyer inc. and 12 more specialized.  My hope was to also be able to begin using water filter kits, to clean up the river water once delivered.

 I purchased the Sawyer SP 181 filter kits and 125 new buckets, to begin cleaning the river water they consumed.  I made a template and sprayed Diregua onto the buckets.  It's the phrase for "clean water" in the Guna language.

 Once over the mountains to the Caribbean side of the country and out to their islands, I made three trips back to the mouth of a river, then up and 7-8 miles into the mountainous  jungle on foot.

 Numerous breaks in the water line, small and large were found up in the jungle.  Most breaks were underground.

 Following the pipeline in and up to it's source, was a hike of about 15-17 miles round trip. Several Indians accompanied me, carrying parts and tools.

 Main sections were flushed by operating different pre-existing valves.

 Steep ravines and streams, required the pipeline to be suspended by cables.

 8 streams to be crossed and several slippery rock faced areas like this one and 3 water falls, had to be climbed to gain access to the uppermost pipeline intakes.  I took a bad fall on this one surface shone above but was very lucky! Only bruises.

A concrete coffer dam/enclosure covering one intake needed to be cleaned of leaves and other debris. I dove in and cleaned the system, to show the Indians what was necessary. They understand now so can now do this themselves.

 Further upriver, at dam #3, another set of intakes had been silted over and clogged with organic debris.We dug it out, inspected it and made repairs that would allow a clean flow of water going forward.

 I returned to Panama City for hospitalization, then went on a shopping trip for plumbing parts. Was able to clean out the intake area, and extend intakes up and into some clean water.  Then modified what we had to allow screening to act as an improvised filter around each intake.  The men watched and learned as I explained what I was doing and why.

3 intakes now clear of debris and protected by screening. The men will come back and monitor this area from now on.

The addition of 4" PVC street elbows and perforated pipe, plus screening, got one intake up into clean water.

 Above: Steep terrain, a 60-70' drop off within inches of the slippery trail. The sounds of birds and very loud howler monkeys dominated the background.

I marked thorny trees next to the trail for safety's sake.


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  Long story however, that even had me requiring emergency room hospitalization back in Panama City on the Pacific side of the country, for infections on my limbs from severe insect bites,

 but in the end, we now have water to the first 2 of 8 islands.

 The water is shared now, with the last 6, as the population arrives in their ulus with Gerry jugs, buckets, oil cans/whatever can hold water/often 70-100 gallons per ulu.

 The shore side line was repaired, shortened and a valve was added to cut flow at night to help build and maintain pressure.  A 2nd line was tapped off the main line and run back to shore, with a hose added so islanders could continue accessing water, while an ulu crew could fill their containers.

With good water flow, now on islands #1 and 2, the residents of islands 3 to 8 of this island group, come by ulu to fill up.  I've been told, "all the people are very very happy!"
 The line for water, at the shoreline valved system I installed, begins before sunrise and ends after darkness, sometimes 5-6 ulus in line.  However, it is a success for now.  Thousands of islanders are getting at least, water direct from a mountain river; thousands.

Sailing home heavily laden with water from the pipeline.  The sail is from the Ulu Sail Project.

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It was difficult to convince them of the value of filtering that water,  but some families with babies, very young children or elders in their hut's, did understand.  You see, the mortality rate for both young and old, is high.  Because of poor nutrition and water problems only 6.2 children out of 10 live past the age of 5.  Yes, almost 4 of 10 children die because of food or water problems.

OK, for now, as at least some water, questionable water, is getting to them.  In my discussions with Alberto, I touched on other problems to see if they were aware of them.  Zika? yes, they heard of it and it was severe there a year ago.  Rising water levels? yes ( I was surprised they know) they are already making some plans to move entire populations of each island off and back to the mainland.  However, they are very disorganized in this.  The elders appear to be exasperated and know they will not live long and the problem with be up to younger men...men who are not yet in control, but should be.  Father, this is a crisis in the making, a slow motion disaster.

I stayed a month but once back in the states, I began searching for information again.  This time, beyond food and water, but moving an entire population, something that is occurring in the Pacific Islands  but not yet in our hemisphere.  Or, so I thought!  I found a 143 page summary of a UN report date 2010, that stated they were aware of the problem for the Guna people and the Panamanian government, an International banking group dedicated to this kind of crisis and....the Catholic church....had agreed to unify to address the problem.  From what I read,  money from the banking system was put into a Panamanian govt. acct. to begin building villages, schools, hospitals for the first individual community to move it's population to the mainland. (nearly 50 islands are inhabited).  Some Gunas who have moved off to Panama City wish to return to these new communities to regroup with their families if and when this relocation occurs.  However the money put aside, has disappeared.. yes, more than likely, corruption.

The catholic church?  I cannot find any info. Who can I speak to? Who can be a contact person with interest and the strength to persist?  I have tried to contact the pastor of the main catholic church in Panama City,  the National Shrine of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, with no response.  I tried also both Grand Knights of the 2 Knights of Columbus councils in the city with no results. 

the sea actually 'touches' the walls of many homes..........at a normal high tide. Storm seas cover many islands already.  The sea level is rising.

 These islands are not much more than sand bars over old reefs and generally within a few miles of the shoreline and it's rivers.

Originally the people had moved to the islands to get away from the Spanish invasion and problems occurring with other tribes as well as disease and sickness from mosquito born problems.  The problems were critical enough for the entire population to move from river villages, to island life.

Life on the islands was good in the past, but the population has been increasing fast and the land mass is no longer adequate in size for the community style of life to continue. Add to that, the sea level is rising.

I will be going back. Small projects will continue and I will begin to try repairing the pipeline system further, so water can supply islands 3-8 of this group, but much more needs to be done.  It is clear that some island communities need to move very soon.  Others might have several years and some, 10-20 years but all have to be working on the problem now. Sadly global warming, not caused by them, has created a disaster in slow motion for them.  Storms have already flooded some of these low lying islands and lives have been lost. The Gunas are running out of time.

So what do I need?  Good question.  Prayers certainly, but much more.  There is a need to begin to gather good minds, willing to help assess, discuss, research and act as advisers at least.  It would be a great help if a contact list could be developed of who or which person or organization is involved so contacts can be made.  I believe I can work within the Guna's elder community as they trust me, but the power to execute any meaningful moves will come from working both sides, theirs and the modern, Internet western culture side... and that is my plan.

  

Please give this some thought.  Anything meaningful will take a lot of time but I have hope.  Right now, adequate clean water, better and more abundant food and with effort/not luck, soon planning and action will begin building the infrastructure ashore. It's up to 'us'.
Statistically, less than 2 of these 3 children will live past 5 years of age, mostly due to poor nutrition and poor water.  Which ones do you think............or, can a difference be made?
                         Help me get MAD.             that is:      to  Make A Difference.

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